Rolex's journey to global fame: The surprising origins of a luxury watch
Rolex is synonymous with Swiss luxury, yet few know the brand’s roots lie in England. German-born Hans Wilsdorf founded the company in London in 1905 with his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis. Initially, Rolex watches were assembled in England, but the parts were sourced from Switzerland, especially from the Maison Aegler in Bienne, renowned for its precision craftsmanship. Rolex didn’t move to Switzerland until 1919, when a 33% import tax was imposed in England. The new headquarters in Geneva laid the foundation for its international reputation.
The meaning behind the name and first innovations
The meaning of the name "Rolex" is a mystery—it had no significance before becoming a famous watch brand. Wilsdorf said the name came to him by chance while riding on the upper deck of a bus in London. He wanted a name that was easy to pronounce in any language and would stick in people’s minds. The name was registered in 1908.
Rolex distinguished itself through innovation. In 1910, it became the first wristwatch to receive an official chronometer certification for its precision. In 1926, the company launched the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, the Oyster. Its durability was demonstrated when renowned swimmer Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel wearing an Oyster on her wrist—the watch kept perfect time throughout the ten-hour journey.
In 1931, Rolex introduced the Perpetual Movement, an automatic winding mechanism powered by the wearer’s wrist movements. This technology was groundbreaking and set new standards for the durability and reliability of wristwatches.
Success and iconic collections
Rolex has produced numerous iconic models, each with its own story. In 1945, the company introduced the Oyster Perpetual Datejust—the world’s first watch with a date display. This model was worn by figures like President Dwight D. Eisenhower and Martin Luther King, combining technical innovation with aesthetic appeal.
In 1953, Rolex released two adventure-oriented watches, the Explorer and the Submariner. The Submariner was designed for deep-sea diving and has ventured as deep as the Mariana Trench, 11,034 meters down, where only a few people have dared to go. The Explorer was crafted for mountaineers and explorers.
Later, in 1971, Rolex introduced the Explorer II, featuring a 24-hour hand, designed specifically for spelunkers who spent extended periods in dark caves without natural light. Rolex also collaborated with the French diving group COMEX, creating nine special models for deep-sea exploration.
Wilsdorf’s legacy and the Hans Wilsdorf foundation
Hans Wilsdorf was a meticulous businessman, deeply committed to quality and philanthropy. After his wife’s sudden death, he established the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation in 1944, which became the sole owner of Rolex upon his death in 1960. The foundation continues Wilsdorf’s legacy, supporting charitable causes and ensuring that Rolex’s profits contribute to social good—a wish Wilsdorf upheld throughout his life.
Tudor: "The working man’s Rolex"
Rolex is known for luxury, but Wilsdorf also wanted to create a high-quality, affordable option for the average consumer. Tudor was registered as a trademark in 1926, but it wasn’t until after World War II, in 1946, that Tudor watches were introduced to the market. Wilsdorf ensured that Tudor watches would have all the key features of Rolex watches but at a price accessible to more people. Tudor models, like the Tudor Oyster, were made from high-quality materials and included the same self-winding mechanism as Rolex.
In 1985, Tudor introduced a stainless steel alloy, also used in the aerospace industry, making its watches extremely durable for physically demanding environments.
Modern icons and collectors’ treasures
In the early 2000s, Rolex launched the Sky-Dweller Rainbow Daytona, a vibrant model featuring genuine sapphires. This watch represents the current style of Rolex, combining traditional precision with modern design. Produced in limited editions in white and yellow gold, it has become a sought-after treasure among collectors.
In 2000, Rolex released the Cosmograph Daytona, powered by the Calibre 4130 movement. Alongside these innovations, Rolex introduced new colors and a ceramic, scratch-resistant material for watch dials.
Rolex’s story is one of unwavering commitment to quality, continuous technical innovation, and brand loyalty. These watches have achieved iconic status not only for their historical milestones but also for their aesthetic appeal. Rolex’s distinction comes not just from its prices or marketing but from the uncompromising values instilled by its founder, Hans Wilsdorf—a spirit that the company maintains to this day.
Rolex is more than a watch. It is a symbol of the seamless blend of tradition and modern technology, promising timeless style that retains its value over the decades.
Read more about Rolex watches in the Keräilyuutiset 1/2024 issue. You can purchase a single issue from the online store at stamps.fi.